Smoky Mountain National Park- July 2022
Second Time with Sunshine
A couple things of note for planning a trip to the Smokies- be prepared to not have any cell service basically anywhere in the park (aside from the visitors centers and Newfoundland Gap), and bring lots of food! There is no food to be bought here, so pack a cooler and be ready to spend the day unplugged! Also, the trails are very rocky and you step over a lot of tree roots and it is really rustic and lovely, but watch your ankles. I went in the summer and it was HOT. Bring too much water. You'll need it!
I had been anxiously awaiting the chance to get back to this hike from the minute it was over the year before (that one time I hiked in the thunderstorm), and actually get up to the summit this time. This is an 11 mile out and back hike that takes 6 or so hours (took me about 5 and a half, but I spent a while at the summit). It gains about 2,800ft of elevation in the 5.5 miles up. I got to the trail head very early, as the sun was coming up. Its through the main drive in the park and there is a small lot right on the side of the road, with a larger lot to the side. A lot of cars line the sides of the road during the day to park for this hike, so getting there early is definitely recommended. This morning was a little chilly but warmed up quickly once I got moving. The hike was every bit as amazing as I had remembered- the cave, the bluffs, the forest, the views, and I was not missing the rain and lightning. I made it up to the summit before anyone else, and had a few minutes to myself before a couple of groups I had passed made their way up. We traded taking pictures for each other, and I ate some snacks and headed back down. This hike is one of my favorites of all time, and I look forward to it being a staple every time I head down to the Smokies.
This hike is down in the Cade's Cove area of the park, and was very isolated and not as popular, but I loved every minute of it. I saw three whole people and one bear on the trail in the 12 miles out and back it took to get up to Gregory Bald, and it took me about 5 hours. Cade's Cove is a one way loop around a valley on the north west aspect of the park. It's closed to cars on Wednesday and Saturday and only open to bikes and pedestrians on those days, so plan accordingly! The traffic can be a bit much- people would frequently stop on the road and take pictures, and things did not move quickly. So be ready to be patient when driving around the cove (not my strongest asset). 
On my way back down, I did run into a black bear. I had been looking into what to do just in case, and he was very docile and curious, and I made noise and talked to him about what kind of bear stuff he likes to do. He moseyed off the trail and I passed after, giving him some space. Seeing him was the highlight of the hike, and I was glad he let me share his forest with him for a little bit. Black bears are basically big woodland puppies, but being calm, making yourself known (don't sneak up on them), and respectful of their space is the most important thing to do in an interaction. Do I want to die trying to pet something I shouldn't? Not particularly, so just be smart about it.
I chose to do this hike first thing the next morning, as I'd read reviews that it is very popular and there is limited parking, and they were not wrong. The other thing mentioned is it's a short hike, 4 miles total, but gains a TON of elevation and despite the short distance, that makes it more challenging than a lot of people attempting it account for. The beginning of the hike passes over a nice creek, then it goes basically straight up hill for 2 miles (1400ft of elevation), and the path at the top to the actual peak has been closed due to a wildfire for a while. This does not stop people from going to the peak, but I did not feel like illegally rock climbing by myself that morning, so I didn't. This hike was really intense, not going to lie, and the pay off at the end was... fine? Not one I would make an effort to do again unless the peak officially re-opens. It took me almost 2 hours, for reference. That elevation gain does not mess around! 
This hike out and back to the Bunion is 8 miles (and 1,800 ft of elevation gain) per AllTrails, but there is another trail called the Jumpoff that branches out and I wandered around that for a while, so it added a couple of miles and took me about 5 hours total. It was a very enjoyable hike with lots of look outs off the side of the mountain. I also saw this beautiful doe on the Jumpoff trail, and she followed me for a bit. I'm not saying I'm not a Disney Princess of some sort, but I love collecting animals on hikes. It adds so much wholesomeness to the experience, and a sense of connectedness to the world we all live in together. I do not have a picture of the view from the Jumpoff, however, because it was cloudy for 30 minutes that day and it happened to be the 30 minutes I was on this trail trying to sneak a peak. There is something wild about standing on the edge of a mountain completely surrounded by dense fog though. I'll just have to make the detour again on a less cloudy day next time. .jpg)
The Bunion itself is so much more majestic than it sounds, and a lot of people were perched around on the rocks eating snacks and such, so it's a great place to exchange picture taking favors. It was fun to chat and it really wasn't as crowded as I figured it would be for mid-day, peak season. Two notes of caution- The trail around the back side of the rock is pretty narrow, and I definitely slipped and could have fallen badly off the side of a mountain, so be careful. The trail is also an out and back that loops around the bunion, and while it doesn't sound like it would be easy to get lost, I missed the connector back to the correct side of the trail (the sign had fallen down) and wandered on the Application Trail going in the wrong direction for a little bit. Not the end of the world, AllTrails for the win per usual. But, sometimes I think I have a good sense of direction and am reminded subtly that I do not. 
Hot Take: I did NOT save the best for last on this one. Holy mother of humans, this wrecked my zen completely. The timing of this hike likely had a lot to do with this opinion, as I'd had a beautiful three days of silence and solitude and peace and nature and gratitude, and this was jam packed with people and I do not like people *that* much. It was the last hike of my trip, and I was also probably (okay, definitely) feeling angsty about leaving. This paved, steep, crowded, loud hike goes up to an observation deck, and yes the views are pretty, and yes I could be nicer about it. The wonderful thing about this hike, and why it's so popular, is it's very accessible given it is paved. I was just not ready to be shoulder to shoulder with humans after not speaking to very many of them for a few days. 
The road to this hike is close to Newfoundland Gap, and I believe it's closed in the winter. There is a very large parking lot and bathrooms and such, and the vistas around the lot itself are also pretty. The hike out to the observation deck is half a mile and gains 400ft of elevation, which is pretty steep, to be honest. It was an obstacle course of power walking around strollers and people who walk slower than me up mountains. But, the trail itself was lined with wildflowers, which were really pretty, and towering pines, which were really pretty, and mountains in the distance with clouds rolling over them, which were really pretty. So, I got over it (mostly, can't you tell?). The observation tower was impressive, and was a large ramp up to the top, keeping it accessible. The views were also impressive, I will give it that. It's worth checking out, if you're in the headspace for it. I also realize I'm a bit of a hiking snob and like to work harder for my summits, which is fully a Me problem. So don't let my bad attitude deter you, but I'd go in the morning if I was going back, not 4pm on a beautiful day.
Alum Cave to Mount LeConte (Again)
Gregory Ridge Trail to Gregory Bald
The parking area for this hike was off of Forge Creek road at the end of a little turn around, which is about half way around the cove and a turn off after the visitor's center. Sometimes this road is closed, so keep an eye out for that, because then you'll have to walk some extra distance. The hike itself gained a lot of elevation gradually (3000ft according to my watch) and was mostly through the woods, and compared to a lot of the other hikes in the park, there weren't really grand overlooks or a ton of points of interest along the way. Personally, I didn't care because I like hiking through the quiet woods. The view at the end was completely worth it, as I had the whole top of the mountain to myself looking down over Cade's Cove. The peak was covered in Azalea bushes that bloom in mid-late June and would absolutely be worth a trip back for.
Chimney Tops
Charlies Bunion
I had been hesitant to do this hike, and I don't really have a great reason other than the word Bunion in the title. Okay, the real reason is I was worried it was going to be wicked crowded. The trailhead follows the Appalachian Trail, and starts at the Newfoundland Gap lot, which is about half way through the park and a very large lot with a beautiful overlook. And, bathrooms. And, cell service. Good news though, lots of parking, so not one you have to beat the sunrise to in the morning. And, guess what, it's a GORGEOUS hike. There are a lot of people who get on the trail because it's convenient from the parking lot, but then quickly change their mind with the incline.
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Overall, awesome hike, would definitely do it again next time I'm in the Smokies.
Clingman's Dome
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